From Chemistry Lab to Film Set: The Art of Special Effects Makeup

Introduction

Special effects makeup is essential for creating the magic in our favourite films and television shows. It involves transforming actors into otherworldly beings and making realistic wounds and gore, combining chemistry knowledge with creative skill (1). In this blog, we explore the chemical reactions and molecules involved in special effects makeup, revealing the science behind some of Hollywood's most iconic looks.

Prosthetics and Sculpting Materials:

Many special effects makeup creations use prosthetics to change an actor's appearance dramatically. These prosthetics often come from materials like silicone, foam latex, and gelatine (1).

 Silicone prosthetics are made through a chemical reaction between a silicone base and a curing agent. The curing agent, typically a platinum catalyst, initiates the cross-linking of silicone polymer chains to form a flexible, skin-like material (2). This process is called vulcanisation. 

Foam latex prosthetics involve the reaction between liquid latex, a dispersion of rubber particles in water, and a foaming agent. The mixture is whipped into a frothy foam and heated, causing the rubber particles to coalesce and form a lightweight, flexible material (3). 

Gelatine prosthetics are created by dissolving gelatine, a protein derived from collagen, in hot water. As the solution cools, the gelatine molecules form a three-dimensional network, trapping water and creating a semi-solid, skin-like material (4).

Adhesives and Removers

Adhesives used to attach prosthetics include medical-grade acrylic adhesives and silicone adhesives. Acrylic adhesives consist of acrylic polymers dispersed in a solvent. When the solvent evaporates, the polymers cross-link, forming a strong bond between the prosthetic and the skin (5). Silicone adhesives are based on the same chemistry as silicone prosthetics, with a silicone base reacting with a curing agent to form a flexible bond (2). 

When it's time to remove the prosthetics, makeup artists use chemical removers that break down the adhesive without harming the skin. These removers often contain solvents like isopropyl myristate, a fatty acid ester, or hexylene glycol, an alcohol. Both solvents dissolve the adhesive bonds by disrupting the intermolecular forces between the adhesive molecules (6).

Makeup and Colouring Techniques

Alcohol-activated makeup relies on the rapid evaporation of a specialised alcohol solution, typically composed of isopropyl alcohol or ethanol, to leave behind a highly concentrated pigment that adheres to both skin and prosthetic materials. The alcohol acts as a solvent, dissolving the pigments and allowing for smooth application (1).

Cream-based makeup contains a blend of waxes, oils, and pigments, with the waxes and oils acting as emollients to provide a smooth, blendable texture (7).

Water-based makeup uses water-soluble pigments and a water-soluble binder, like a cellulose gum, to create a paintable, fast-drying product (8). Greasepaint, on the other hand, combines pigments with a mixture of oils and waxes for a more durable, moisture-resistant makeup (7).

Blood and Gore Effects:

Fake blood is often created using a combination of corn syrup, food colouring, and water. The corn syrup, composed primarily of glucose and fructose, provides the viscous base. Food colouring, often a blend of synthetic dyes like E129 (Allura Red) and E133 (Brilliant Blue), imparts the desired hue (1).

To create more complex gore effects, artists may use materials like gelatine, silicone, and latex, which can be sculpted and painted to resemble gruesome injuries. By combining these materials with various pigments and textures, makeup artists can achieve lifelike simulations of torn flesh, exposed bone, and other grisly effects (1).

Closing Thoughts

As streaming services like Netflix and Disney+, Paramount+, Apple TV etc. continue to expand their content offerings, the demand for special effects makeup in television and film has never been higher. Are we reaching a point of saturation (mind the chemistry pun) for special effects makeup? As a Nicholas Cage fan however, I am off to see Renfield this weekend. 

References

1. Green, J. B., & Willoughby, V. (2019). The Makeup Artist Handbook: Techniques for Film, Television, Photography, and Theatre. CRC Press.

2. O'Toole, E. A. (2015). Chemistry and Technology of Silicones. In R. K. Prud'homme, & H. W. Kouwenhoven (Eds.), Silicone Surface Science (pp. 1-20). Springer.

3. Kogure, T., & Sudo, S. (2005). Latex Foam. In E. P. Moore (Ed.), Polymeric Foams: Science and Technology (pp. 179-198). CRC Press.

4. Borzacchiello, A., & Ambrosio, L. (2018). Gelatine. In F. Ullah, & G. Z. Kyzas (Eds.), Biopolymers and Biotech Admixtures for Eco-Efficient Construction Materials (pp. 97-117). Elsevier.

5. Ebnesajjad, S. (2013). Adhesives Technology Handbook (3rd ed.). William Andrew.

6. Lotte, C., Wester, R. C., Rougier, A., & Maibach, H. I. (1993). In vitro Predictive Tests for Percutaneous Absorption. In R. C. Wester, & H. I. Maibach (Eds.), In Vitro Percutaneous Absorption: Principles, Fundamentals, and Applications (pp. 105-124). CRC Press.

7. Schlossman, M. L. (2010). The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics (4th ed., Vols. 1-4). Allured Business Media.

8. Rowe, R. C., Sheskey, P. J., & Quinn, M. E. (Eds.). (2009). Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients (6th ed.). Pharmaceutical Press.